Engine out?
Get some new rubber engine supports, 2 in front of the engine, and the one behind the gearbox.
The front ones tend to go in two pieces when the engine comes out.
What else?
Front exhaust, clutch, how worn is it, the clutch release bearing, spinn it by hand, listen if it is noisy, and the two rubber gaskets where the tubes for the pushrods to the valves goes into the engine block, they are often leaky, but that involves taking off both cylinderheads, and is not easy to put back together correctly if you are unexperienced.
New front brake pads, handbrake pads and handbrake cables, engine oil and filter, and as you suggested yourself, new points and condenser. AND spark plugs.
Adjusting the valves.
That's about it!

I am glad to learn that the brake fluid in a Citroen is not same as other vehicle brake fluid. Thanks.

I whish it was that simple!
It's not ALL Citroens that have LHM (a green oily liquid), and even 2cv has both!
A 2cv with drum brakes front and rear, has normal brake fluid, a 2cv with disc brakes has LHM.
Other Citroen range has LHM as brake fluid if the suspension is hydraulic, normal brake fluid if not.
It's confusing!
Rubber parts for Citroen brake system had color markings on them:
Red: normal brake fluid
Green: LHM
White: both normal and LHM

We had a Citroen DS brought in long ago, and his mechanic had put water in the LHM can, as he mistook it, resulting in total ruin of all the hydraulic systems!
But what the heck, the only thing hydraulic on a DS are the brakes, the suspension, the steering and the gearchange!
All of it machined to a tolerance of 5000th of a millimeter!
I think the mechanics insurance company took over!

Mainly out of curiosity I must admit, but also to get at the discs as I saw flecks of rust flying everywhere whenever they span. Sorry!

I do have the tube though, and I had realised the little metal bit went between gearbox and callipers thanks, I just left it there so as it wouldn't get lost/bent etc. Though I probably wouldn't have remembered when putting it back!

Just to make it totally clear, a car like mine with disc front and drum back will still use LHM for the rear drum brakes?

Righto, engine supports, front exhaust am I looking for rust?, clutch looks fine to me, but I think I'll get a neighbour mechanic to check it as I'm not sure (He's very rude about 2cv's though ) er...new brake pads, does the handbrake cable need changing if it looks allright, or do they wear anyway? engine oil + filter, electrically stuff fine, pushrod gaskety things I think I'll leave just for now (until I have a week off or something, don't want to get halfway there and then have to wait weeks)

Water in a DS hydraulics?! Ouch!
I've only seen one DS properly, they're beautiful - the way they rise up on there suspension when they start is just great!

Thank you all again! I'll make a minor order for spares now, then see if there are any panels or other big things I need later

Sorry for the very amateurish way of going about this, I will get there in the end!

Yes, I'm sure you will get there in the end!

Your discs looks fine, and rustflakes occur when the car has not been driven for a while.
All brake discs rust where they do not touch brake pads, and to derust them and paint them is in my oppinion silly, but it's your car, you do what you want.

Well, front exhaust, or the entire exhaust, what you are looking for is holes and thin metal, it is bound to be rusty, but don´t let that scare you, as long as there is metal.
Clutch has to be taken apart to see how it is, but you will need a tool to center it again when you put it back together, or, use your eye to see it is centered, the only thing that can happen is, that you cannot get the gearbox all the way in, and please don't try and force it!
Look in the Haynes manual how it is done.
You don't need new handbrake cables if they look ok, you can allways change them later on if you need to.
Yes, it's LHM in the brakes front and rear.
If you attempt the pushrod gaskets, let me know before you do anything, it is very easy to damage things if not done right.

The DS is a lovely car, I have allways admired them.
I had one once, a DS23 Pallas Injection, with halfautomatic gearbox and leather seats, it was a lovely car!
Keep the questions coming, AMATEUR!

Will do

Can I run my plan of action past you now I've looked at it and see what you think?
I was intending to sort out all the mechanicalness - that is have all the engine, gearbox suspension and electrics working fine first, but leave the bigger things (Pushrod gaskets, clutch etc.) till later.
Then sort out all the bodywork issues around the bulkhead and windscreen surround etc.
Then all the bodywork stuff at the back, nothing too major
Get all my panels etc. painted and stick it all together
All the rest (There are bound to be tonnes of other little bits needing doing, I've got some shiny wing mirrors to put on, and take of the brake lights at the back that have been added on later and don't look at all right etc.)
Does this sound roughly acceptable?

Is the front exhaust the bit under the gearbox, or the bit before the heat exchanger? Both look serviceable, if a bit rusty.
Also, the sticky out bit on the suspension arm that rests on the chassis to prevent the arm going too far down is bent inwards. Can I just lever it out, or will it need heating or something?
Last question for now - If the engine isn't running and I push the accelerator down petrol gushes out of my carb onto the crankcase...is it meant to do that?

Thank you!

Look at the most importent things to get it through an MOT:
Brakes, steering, corrosion, suspension and lights.
If you have the engine and gearbox out of the car by now it will give you more space to work in, so put the engine/gearbox in as one of the last things.
Start by checking the steering for wear, think the Haynes manual can help you, otherwise ask me if it is not made clear enough in the manual.
Adjust the rear brakes, don't try and open them at this point, its a pain without the proper tools!
When the car is ready, try and have your brakes testet at a workshop braketester if possible, if it brakes evenly, there's no need to open the rear brakes.
Check the brake pipes, there must be absolutely NO corrosion on them anywhere!
Check them all the way, the MOT man will, and he gets wery angry if he finds any corrosion!
If in doubt, change all the pipes.
Look at the shock absorbers, are they leaking oil?
If one of them is, you need to change the one on the other side too, allways change them in pairs.
Again, when the car is on the ground, bounce the car up and down to see if the shock absorbers is working properly, it must stop jumping after going up and down 1.5 to 2 times.
The weakest point on a 2cv is corrosion, so that should be your major concern right now.
All the mechanicals is quite strong and longlasting if you service it once in a while, so no great concerns in that department.
Put the engine on a table, adjust the valves, change the points, condenser and sparkplugs, leave the clutch and gaskets alone, it is not difficult to take out the engine a second time if anything needs changing.
Beware of the oil cooler and the tubes connecting to it, it is very britlle if hit hard by a tool.

Yes, the exhaust is the bit under the gearbox, the bit under the door and the small pipe at the end of it, it's ok to be rusty, but there must be no holes or area of thin metal anywhere, again, it will be checked at the MOT.
The piece in front of the heat exchanger is cast iron, no problems there.
The bit on the suspension arm, tap it gently back in place with a hammer.
Stop playing with the accelerator when the engine is not running, the gasoline enters the cylinders, and washes away the protective layer of oil, if you want to play with it, disconnect the cable/rod to the carburator.
Yes, it's normal that gasoline comes out of the intake manifold, there's a small hole in it at the bottom for the same reason.
Good luck! (If you lived down the road, I would have come to help you)

I don't have the engine/gearbox out yet, though I think I probably will...? It would give me more space to sort out the bulkhead and everything, and for a 2cv it doesn't sound like too difficult an operation?

All the brake pipes were fine except for the one between master cylinder and front right calliper, which I've replaced. The rest look as though they've been replaced fairly recently though.
I ordered all the new brake pads and a "Caliper seal repair kit 2 needed per car We can also sell the parts individually if needed but this kit is so cheap it isn’t worthwhile usually." - which looks like this?



There are two of each type of the rubber bits at the bottom, one is one way up the other is the other way up in the pic.
For the life of me I cannot see where they go, and there doesn't seem to be a seal for the actual piston?
Is this the wrong kit for my brakes, or do they not go on the callipers, or am I just not looking in the right place?
Everything else is looking good, but these brakes puzzle me!

Having subscribed to the 2cvgb thingy there is a person just down the road from me with a (2CV) van, who is trying to set up a regular meeting for local 2cv people - hopefully some hands on help will be available from there soon!

Thanks

P.S. The steering wibbleness seems absolutely fine, but I haven't checked the tracking, or whatever it's called. I'm assuming I will need to properly check that at some point, instead of just looking at and saying it looks all right?
No leaking oil, but it does about 3 bounces before settling?

After having a better inspection it looks like the two on the left fit on the whole sticky out bit where the reservoir goes, and perhaps the four on the right are for the master cylinder?

Cannot figure out what you have bought, but it is NOT for a 2cv brake caliper!

"Caliper seal repair kit 2 needed per car We can also sell the parts individually if needed but this kit is so cheap it isn’t worthwhile usually.
BR019 - £3.50 "

Second one down here -> http://2cvcity.co.uk/2cv-parts-spares.a ... _partsrs=1



But since they're so cheap I just ordered one from 'ecas' instead, I'm sure I will find somewhere to put those seals!

And I've finished the hole repair in the door - Pictures in a bit!

I know there is no form of logical order so far, but I'm sure I will get 'into the swing of it' :S

Thanks

This is what it should look like:

Hi gas mark 5.

I'm missing some dialogue from you, all I get is questions.
Makes me wonder if you can use any of the things I write you??

I can! Sorry, I've just been bumbling along not very well

However things seem to be happening now?

The hole in the door is sorted out, I'm still not very happy with the result but it will do for a first time and I can come back to it later

The real calliper seals arrived today, and the working by the light of a mobylette I have attached it back onto van There was tonnes of crap in the piston - no doubt it would have come out simply by bleeding them but I think dismantling them might have been useful learning if nothing else?
Does the layout of this look correct?

And one of basking in the light, sound and smell of a mobylette


One of the engine mounts at least is very bad, and I have replacements waiting. Condenser, points, HT leads, Plugs etc. I'm aiming to replace this weekend
At half term (24th oct for two weeks I think?) I can bring it down outside the house with access to electricity, then I'll be able to weld in the A post repair section, patch up the bulkhead, do something about the crossmembery bit at the rear bumper and no doubt hundreds of other places!

And for "the most important things to get it through an MOT:
Brakes, steering, corrosion, suspension and lights."

Brakes are in the process of being sorted (Just need to put some brake fluid in it and try it out
Steering according to a Haynes manual is within the range it has to be, but not brilliant (I've got the numbers written down somewhere, they'll turn up in a bit )
Corrosion should be more or less sorted at half term
Lights need doing, but I have all the bits so it should just be an assembly job?

Does this sound more like it?

Thank you for all your help, I am very bad at time management But all your advice is having an effect!

Thank you

George

Thank's George!
Remember I'm an old geezer, needing some ping-pong when writing.

Your door repair: Looks great, but why haven't you welded it all the way round?
but it shows youv'e got the talent!
Remember to spray something that stops rust at the inside of the door, when metal is heated, it corrodes more and faster afterwards.

Brakes: Yes, it looks correct, but don't use brakefluid, LHM! *LOL*
Be carefull of the brake pipes, I can see you have bendt the pipe for the caliper 180 degrees in the air, and bending it back could make a small hairline crack in the tube, so take care and not mess around with them more than is absolutely nessesary.
Block off the hole in the caliper where the pipe is to go, if you haven't applied the tube yet, you don't want any dirt in there.
Adjusting the handbrake: Lift the front wheels off the ground, remove the cables from the calipers, and remove the spring connecting the handbrake arms.
Loosen the bolt holding the arm, turn the eccentric towards the disc, (clockwise on the right, anticlockwise on the left) untill the arm has a play of 2-3 mm's, and remember, left and right on a car is allways as is when you sit behind the wheel!
But to put it simpel, turn the eccentrics upwards on both sides of the brake disc, tighten the bolt, and yes, it might alter the eccentric, but then you will have to do it over again untill you succeed.
Put back the springs and cables, pull the handbrake lever 2-3 notches, and tighten the cables evenly untill it starts to brake the wheels.
You are finished when you can pull the lever about 4-5 notches, both wheels block, and both wheels are completely loose when the lever is released.
Remember there are 2 nuts on each cable, and to tighten them together when finished.
It takes a bit of trying if you haven't done it before, but you will get there in the end, and impress the MOT-guy!
I was told once when I had my 2cv at the MOT, that for them, the difference of an amateur and a pro 2cv mechanic was the way the handbrake was adjusted, after wich he turned my car down, because the handbrake did not work at all!
The idiot had tried it with the rear wheels in the tester! HMM?

Nice to see you have put bolts and nuts to hold the caliper halves together, and here's a tip for ya, so listen up laddy:
If you ever need to remove the calipers in order to change the brakediscs, remove one bolt only, loosen the remaining bolt just enough to turn the caliper upwards so you can put the other bolt in again, tighten it with a nut, do so on both sides, and lift both calipers clear of the discs, taking care not to bend the brakepipes too much!
In this way, you don't need to bleed the brakes afterwards, 'cos the system stays intact.

That's all!
I enjoyed the combo pic of a 2cv in the light of a Moby, way to go!